Flugel 2010 Summer Vacation report

[Low Light Mike]

I've recently completed a 16-day road trip vacation. The trip included approx 33 hours on-board ferries, so here's my report.

Besides the ferry trip experience, I'll also be commenting on what I saw & experienced in my overall trip. Most ferry photos will be posted in the existing threads for each ship. Other non-ferry photos specific to attractions/land will be posted here.

======================

Day 1: Nanaimo to Port Hardy:

For me, the "new" Highway 19 between Nanaimo and Campbell River is becoming boring. It's quick and efficient, but it seems that the interesting travel starts once I cross the Campbell River bridge.

At Sayward Junction, we turned off the highway and drove through Sayward to Kelsey Bay. There's a one-lane bridge on that road (the first of many that we'd encounter on our vacation trip). We crossed the Salmon River 3 or 4 times, and came into the shadow of Mt. Hkusam.

- Here's a photo from Kelsey Bay, with Mt. Hkusam dominating the scene:



Near the end of the road, just past the log sort turn-off, we found a road-side kiosk put up by the local tourism authority. It had information on the block-ship hulks that guard the log-sort harbour (including ex Union Steamship Cardena), and on the BC Ferry Queen of Prince Rupert that used to berth at Kelsey Bay.

We spotted the hulk of Cardena, and took pictures from a few angles.
- I've posted photos of these 2 kiosk items and the Cardena hulk in other threads (Union Steamship thread and the QPR photo thread).


We then found the location of the old ferry dock at Kelsey Bay. The old car holding compound is now an auto wrecker junkyard. The dolphin is still there.

--------------

I really like the drive between Sayward and Woss, with the mountains and nice hills; plus all the logging road overpasses are fun to see.

At Port McNeill, we turned-off the highway, and drove down to the waterfront, where there is a nice seaside road just south of the ferry terminal.

We took a few pictures of the ferry terminal (posted in the ferry terminal thread), and then waited 45 minutes for the ferry to sail into Port McNeill. We noted that the Tachek was still on the run, and I got some good photos as she approached Port McNeill from Alert Bay, and then berthed (photos posted in the Tachek photo thread).


We arrived in Port Hardy, and did the food & gas shopping on "Granville Street" (it's funny how that street in 'Hardy is same name as a more prominent street in Vancouver.... ;D), and then we checked into the Airport Inn.
- the hotel isn't on the same quality level as Glen Lyon or Quarterdeck, but the others were sold-out weeks before (busy ferry season....or so it seemed), and so we settled for our "3rd choice" in Hotel.



Port Hardy Airport Inn wasn't bad, just nothing special. And of course it was a poor-sleep night, as we tried to retire early in preparation for our 4:30am start the next day.......but we of course were disturbed by the late-night arrivals at 10:45pm from the just-arrived NorEx.

[Low Light Mike]

Day 2: Port Hardy to Prince Rupert, on the MV Northern Expedition:


Day 2 started early, with a 4:30am wake-up, in order to check-out around 5:10am, pack the car and then be at the terminal a bit early for the 5:30am check-in time deadline.

I love the early morning for travel. Nice time of day with quiet and changing sky colour.


Upon arrival at Bear Cove, there were attendants working line-up, getting info on our reservation, even before we passed-through the toll booth.
- We received the boarding-pass booklet with the Scott photo on the cover. Because we had booked a cabin, the booklet included the damage deposit form to fill-out.......which we did in the car (later upon arrival at the pursers office on-board, we found that most people didn't fill out the form, which meant that they had to wait longer.....and our check-in was expedited .

While waiting to board, I of course took photos, including a sunrise shot, facing the toll-booths:


We boarded shortly after 6:00am. My spouse went to the cabin to resume her sleep, and I roamed and explored the ship.
- the ship has a free-coffee kiosk set up near a stairway on one of the pax decks, a nice morning welcome.

Capt Bouchard was the master for the day. I chatted with him in the Canoe Cafe once, and that was it for officer interaction for me. I mentioned "WCFForum" and he smiled about our group. No sign of Lorne the Chief Steward.

I will be posting many photos of NorEx in the dedicated NorEx photo thread.

==============

The sailing was only 50% full for vehicles and the low passenger count was evident in places like the Aurora Lounge and the Vista dining room.

From my chatting with Canoe Cafe staff, the tourist season has been slow (because their travel price-point is too high, in my opinion).
- Canoe Cafe is more popular than the Vista Restaurant. Staff said this is partly because foreign travelers understand the word "cafeteria" better than the word "buffet", so some high-end customers might be oblivious to the buffet.

We used the Canoe Cafe for all our food. No point in doing the Vista Restaurant for us, as that's too much food for the price, for our liking. We found it easier to grab smaller items during the day from the Canoe Cafe.
- Here's the Vista Restaurant's breakfast buffet line-up:


It surprised me that the Passages Gift Shop was closed for parts of the day (same thing on the NorAd). I thought it would be open all sailing long, to maximize sales potential.

The cabin was comfortable. The only annoyance was the wind-whistling in the hallway on deck 5, because of outside doors that don't fully close.
- at some point in the day, I needed a nap, and I chose to do this just after Boat Bluff, and so I slept through Butedale (my one regret of the day, but I needed a nap!). The shower in the cabin is comfortable.
- There was a Gideon Bible in the cabin (also in our NorAd cabins).
I should have read Psalm 107:23-30, but I didn't.
www.biblegateway.com/passage/?search=psalms%20107&version=NIV




For outside deck space, the deck 6 solarium was popular, and got busy at lunch when staff set-up the smokie BBQ and sold "hot dogs and pop" to tourists.

Various smokers seemed unaware that smoking was restricted to the deck-5 stern area. Language or apathy.....or both.

I didn't like the lack of a direct outside stairway between the Deck 6 solarium and deck 7. You have to walk into the wind on the ship sides on deck 6 to access the side-stairways to deck 7. NorAd has a better setup, where you can go between all outside stern-decks by stairways right at the sheltered stern.


It was also a quirk that the tripping hazzards on the stern end of the Deck-6 solarium were not painted yellow, as all the other tripping hazzards where. I tripped on the white bar....







To follow the route and landmarks, I used a map from a booklet that I had purchased on my 2004 Queen of the North inside-passage trip.



Here's a comparison of QotN and NorEx printed material:




Crossing Queen Charlotte Sound, we had some forward-to-back pitch&roll; not side-to-side. That was fun to walk around in.

There was no captain's announcements at all from Capt Bouchard; all the announcements were by the Steward's office.
- they missed-the-boat on announcing Boat Bluff to the passengers, waiting until we were just passing it to announce it, so the unsuspecting tourists ran outside too late.

At Boat Bluff, we saw a Coast Guard helicopter landing at the site.


Nearing Gil Island, a crew member told me that there are 2 crosses on the shore, that are visible by binoculars.
- I found them, and took some photos (posted in the QOTN sinking thread).


Just south of the Prince Rupert grain terminal, I saw what I though was a tug boat towing a barge of garbage. Once we passed it, I realized that it was just 2 odd-shaped islands, one with a shack on it. Too funny ! ;D



I've posted various scenic photos in the "scenes from a ferry" photo thread.


I took a few goofy shots too:





As the NorEx neared the Fairview terminal in 'Rupert, we saw the NorAdventure leaving the berth on her 10:00pm Monday night departure for Haida Gwaii. I also saw the Digby Island Ferry. The AMHS berth was empty on that Monday night.

------------

Upon arrival at our motel, we immediately knew that we made a mistake. We had booked a reservation for the "Parkside Resort Motel" for 3 nights, but upon arrival we quickly realized that we wouldn't be able to survive 3 nights in that dump, so we quickly phoned Totem Lodge to secure a reservation for nights 2 & 3, and then informed Parkside that we would only be staying one night.
- they had put us into Room #52, which looked like a bottom-floor, afterthought addition to the garage behind their office.
- let me list the problems: many paint chips on the door, in need of painting. Radiator heater that no one knew how to operate, and that was heating on a hot summer's night. 2 small high windows, with poor venetian blinds, with sticky (like dried orange juice) handles. Light from outside neon sign shining through the blinds all night. Fridge that loudly shuddered and groaned every time it turned off & on, right near the bed. Closet with shelves that were ready to fall apart. TV stand placed above table so that you clunked your head when you stood-up. Odd raised bathroom, a foot above the rest of the small room's floor.
- the owners of the motel seemed nice, but I think they need to choose a different business to run, as they don't have the skills or inclination to run a decent motel.




===============

[Kahloke]

Welcome back, Flug! I'm looking forward to reading more of your entries from your trip. It sounds like a great adventure.

[Scott (Former Account)]

Welcome back, Mike! Sounds like you had a great trip thus far, I look forward to hearing more from your trip around BC.

---

Jul 20, 2010 10:07:33 GMT -8 Low Light Mike said:

[Here's a comparison of QotN and NorEx printed material:

Hmmmmm, I wonder who took that photo aboard the NorEx...

[lmtengs]

Jul 20, 2010 10:07:33 GMT -8 Low Light Mike said:

- the ship has a free-coffee kiosk set up near a stairway on one of the pax decks, a nice morning welcome.

They had that for my trip too, last summer. I'm surprised there wasn't a 'tips' jar or something, knowing BCF...

From my chatting with Canoe Cafe staff, the tourist season has been slow (because their travel price-point is too high, in my opinion).

I think it'll always be hard to make that trip. The Via train (bud car) only travels as far north as Courtenay, and I couldn't find a single greyhound bus making a trip up to Port Hardy. It's just hard to access Port Hardy unless you come by car.

It surprised me that the Passages Gift Shop was closed for parts of the day (same thing on the NorAd). I thought it would be open all sailing long, to maximize sales potential.

Last summer, they only did that partially closed thing on the NorAd. During the part of the trip when the shop was open on the NorAd, they had to close it because things were falling off the shelves from the ship's rocking...

The only annoyance was the wind-whistling in the hallway on deck 5, because of outside doors that don't fully close.

Another thing that hasn't changed
My mom kept on leaving the stateroom to close that door, since it wouldn't close on it's own. She must've left 6 times over the course of the trip.

For outside deck space, the deck 6 solarium was popular, and got busy at lunch when staff set-up the smokie BBQ and sold "hot dogs and pop" to tourists.

That did not occur last year on either of my trips. Do they run it out of the Lighthouse Cafe on the NorAd?

Just south of the Prince Rupert grain terminal, I saw what I though was a tug boat towing a barge of garbage. Once we passed it, I realized that it was just 2 odd-shaped islands, one with a shack on it. Too funny ! ;D

The shack is an old barrack from World War II. They built four around the Harbour at the time, just in case the Japanese attacked. Three are still standing today, and one is a popular hideout for young children on hot summer days.

As the NorEx neared the Fairview terminal in 'Rupert, we saw the NorEx leaving the berth on her 10:00pm Monday night departure for Haida Gwaii.

So... you saw the NorEx from the NorEx? That must be pretty dang rare! ;D

Upon arrival at our motel, we immediately knew that we made a mistake. We had booked a reservation for the "Parkside Resort Motel" for 3 nights, but upon arrival we quickly realized that we wouldn't be able to survive 3 nights in that dump, so we quickly phoned Totem Lodge to secure a reservation for nights 2 & 3, and then informed Parkside that we would only be staying one night.
- they had put us into Room #52, which looked like a bottom-floor, afterthought addition to the garage behind their office.
- let me list the problems: many paint chips on the door, in need of painting. Radiator heater that no one knew how to operate, and that was heating on a hot summer's night. 2 small high windows, with poor venetian blinds, with sticky (like dried orange juice) handles. Light from outside neon sign shining through the blinds all night. Fridge that loudly shuddered and groaned every time it turned off & on, right near the bed. Closet with shelves that were ready to fall apart. TV stand placed above table so that you clunked your head when you stood-up. Odd raised bathroom, a foot above the rest of the small room's floor.
- the owners of the motel seemed nice, but I think they need to choose a different business to run, as they don't have the skills or inclination to run a decent motel.

I don't blame 'em. The economy in Rupert is down the dumps lately, so it's hard for anyone to run a business. Most of the businesses that don't look grungy are chain stores that get some outside funding.

[Low Light Mike]

Jul 20, 2010 13:09:11 GMT -8 @lmtengs said:

That did not occur last year on either of my trips. Do they run it out of the Lighthouse Cafe on the NorAd?

The Lighthouse Cafe was closed on the NorAd for all the time, during both of my sailings. There was no sign of current use.

----------------
ps: thanks for catching my NorExAd typo - fixed.

[Retrovision]

Jul 20, 2010 10:52:58 GMT -8 Kahloke said:

Welcome back, Flug! I'm looking forward to reading more of your entries from your trip. It sounds like a great adventure.

Kahloke stole the words from my keyboard!

Jul 20, 2010 13:09:11 GMT -8 @lmtengs said:

The shack is an old barrack from World War II. They built four around the Harbour at the time, just in case the Japanese attacked. Three are still standing today, and one is a popular hideout for young children on hot summer days.

Thanks for the explanation, I've always wondered the origin of that seeming-bunker. It looks like maybe some agency such as the weather office uses it today, considering the modern equipment attached. Oddly enough, one of the last times that I passed by, there was a person there for some reason; it caught my eye and when I get a chance I'll upload an image that I took of the islet while occupied.

[lmtengs]

Jul 20, 2010 14:48:44 GMT -8 Retrovision said:

Oddly enough, one of the last times that I passed by, there was a person there for some reason.

I saw the same person there when I passed by last summer on my way in. I asked my mom's friend about it and he said it's a dud so people don't trespass. Whenever a maintenance crew drops by, they move it around so people don't realize... It could've been a real person you saw, though, but I doubt it.

[Low Light Mike]

Days 3 and 4 of my trip were spent in Prince Rupert.

Tuesday July 6th started with a drive around the north end of Prince Rupert, looking at the residential areas and finding the Seal Cove seaplane area.

We found the seaplane terminal, but not the Nicola, so we asked at the seaplane office. The Nicola is indeed in her new dock, but it's "around the point" from the seaplane area, and so we needed to get back into the car and drive a few more blocks backtracking and eventually finding it right next to the curling-rink.

Unfortunately, there would be no good photo ops of Nicola in her new base. A locked gate at the top of the ramp prevents access, which is reasonable. The right side has a trail to a point, but the views are obstructed by trees and the rough trails to shore are blocked by giant-hogweed.

We drove around the residential area and couldn't find a good viewpoint for seeing Nicola.

Also, with the new route because of the new berth, she no longer sails past the Prince Rupert waterfront. So I think that action shots of the Nicola are no longer possible.

- I've posted a few Nicola in-berth pics in her photo thread.

-------------

Next we went to Mariners' Park, which is a lovely memorial park to lost mariners. Luke probably loved the Scandinavian flag display done by the Sons of Norway.

Here's a photo of the signature statue for the park



And here's a plaque that is pretty touching:



Of course, we were close to Cow Bay, so we played tourist for a while:



Here is the ship that does the grizzly bear tours to Khutzeymateen Provincial Park.


----------

We visited the Kwinitsa station museum.


I liked the railway memorabilia.


I also resisted temptation and did not buy this book (but I've put it on my Christmas-present list):


- I've posted a pic of a ship model of the CN Prince George, in the old steamship photo thread.

----------

After that, we wandered around downtown.
- we found Chuck's statue:
- I wonder if there's a similar statue of Mr. Hays in Melville Sask?



Lots of neat buildings downtown:


==========

After we checked into our new hotel, I later slipped out to do some afternoon ferry-spotting at the terminal area.
- I found my vantage point at the floats where the coast guard & pilot boat and fishing boats tie-up, right beside the Digby Island Ferry slip.


at 2:30pm, MV Matanuska appeared. Then I waited for the Digby Island ferry to arrive back from the airport.
- photos posted in the Alaska photo thread and the DIF thread.


It was a fun day in Rupert. Cloudy in the morning, and sunny in afternoon/evening.

[Northern Exploration]

Flug that book on CP Rail was one of many that the CP Hotels used to carry in their stores in the flagship hotels. For example the Chateau Frontenac in Quebec City had books on the hotels and rail (both for CP and CN) as well as reproductions of many items. You could buy a tea service from one of the hotels, a replica silver coffee service from the trains, cups and plates, as well as even more expensive items. Posters as well seemed very popular of both the rail, ships and hotels.

I recently bought a used book from a dealer in the US for a very reasonable amount. It is on the plantation house Carters Grove located near Williamsburg. Colonial Williamsburg couldn't afford to maintain the property located outside of its main historical area. So it was registered appropriate as a historical property with all the stipulations and preservation clauses and sold to a very wealthy cable operator. So I decided I should have a book on the house as return visits were no longer possible.

I had the choice of a much more expensive version in new condition or one for much less in a "as new" condition with a small bookplate of the previous owner. I opted for the latter. I was nervous to see the condition when it arrived. It was in perfect shape and I simply placed a sticker over the old bookplate with one of my own and it is not even visible.

Try searching for that book in the US (or any others) and see if it comes up the same way. The demand might be less there and the cost lower. Some of the sellers are rated on some of the sites just like Ebay, so you can tell if they have been rated well by buyers. It just may be as well that there are BC Ferry books and other books of the coast for sale as well for quite reasonable amounts or lower than local used book stores.

[Low Light Mike]

Wednesday July 7th was another day in Prince Rupert, sunny & warm.

We started with a trip to the Museum of Northern BC, which is located next to the Crest Hotel, in a nice longhouse-style building. This museum documents Prince Rupert history but is also a great place to see 1st-Nations culture and art from all over northern BC.

Some photos:

The building.



- the figures in the canoe crack me up ;D



- of course there was CNR railway memorabilia



- Here's an interesting piece to represent European impact on Canada in 1914, re the start of the Great War.
- How many of these 4 1914 leaders can you name?

(clockwise from top: Foch from France, Wilhelm from Germany, for Austria/Hungary, from )


- Argillite is black slate, found on Graham Island in Haida Gwaii. This is a nice collection, but the Haida Gwaii museum (in their new $26Million cultural centre at Skidegate has the world's best collection of argillite carvings - you've paid for it with your tax dollars, so you should see it But for that museum, there is no photography allowed. )



- The trials of being an amateur photographer: A scene with both bright scenery outside the windows, and shadowed totems inside the room. If I set my focus on one, I'll lose the other, and vice versa.





Here's a pano compromise of that wonderful view room



The view north outside, showing some of the Mariners Memorial park



Waterside view of the museum


---------------


Prince Rupert has a nice waterfront walkway, connecting the Cow Bay area to the area by the Kwinitsa Railway museum.
- here's a North to South view, from the pedestrian overpass by the museum.




Then, we did laundry in the afternoon. (sorry, no photos of that).
- But I did manage to travel light, using 4 days worth of essentials, so there was lots of bathtub-laundry of the Tilley travel clothing. I got pretty good at that routine.

[Low Light Mike]

Day 5 of my trip was Thursday July 8, 2010.

The agenda for the day was:
- early morning visit to Fairview area to photograph the many ferries on-site at 7:30am.
- later take the 11:00am NorAd sailing to Haida Gwaii.
- photograph the Kwuna from the NorAd
- check-in to our motel in the Village of Queen Charlotte, after our 6:00pm ferry arrival.


The various ferry-related photos are posted in the specific ship photo threads.


I'll draw your attention to my Northern Adventure ship sailing-commentary, posted to this existing thread, as reply #441:
ferriesbc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=generaltalk&action=display&thread=2615&page=18

[Low Light Mike]

Jul 23, 2010 18:27:23 GMT -8 @4roads said:

Folks, don't you just see an AMC Ambassador station wagon with family and kids in it and Flugel driving it going by down the highway? I do.

When we got to Hyder (Fish Creek bear viewing area) and found out that there are no grizzlies nearby yet because of a late fish run, it was just like Clark Griswold arriving at Wally World to find it was closed.

....except that I didn't take the Tongass National Forest ranger hostage. ;D

[Kahloke]

Jul 23, 2010 18:27:23 GMT -8 @4roads said:

Folks, don't you just see an AMC Ambassador station wagon with family and kids in it and Flugel driving it going by down the highway? I do.

Queen Family Truckster....Yeah, baby

[Low Light Mike]

Jul 23, 2010 21:05:55 GMT -8 @4roads said:

Have to ask this question about your excellent trip.

See any critters? Black bears, eagles or any meese?

No major marine wildlife, other than the tail fluke of something near Wright Sound.

We saw countless ravens at Haida Gwaii, and plenty of eagles there too. There are also lots of small mule (Sitka) deer on Graham island that we saw on our drive north from Tlell to Masset.

For bears, we only saw 3 and they were all black bears. 2 within 5 minutes of each other near New Aiyansh.

No elk or moose.

but we saw lots of totem poles.... ;D

[northwesterner]

Should have driven another 16 hrs up the Cassiar/Alaska/Klondike Highways to Skagway.

We've got grizz. One walked out in front of my Jeep in Dyea a few days ago.

[Low Light Mike]

Jul 23, 2010 22:11:36 GMT -8 northwesterner said:

Should have driven another 16 hrs up the Cassiar/Alaska/Klondike Highways to Skagway.

We've got grizz. One walked out in front of my Jeep in Dyea a few days ago.

Some day, I'm going to drive that whole highway. When I was at the Meziadin Junction, I could feel the forces-of-adventure pulling my car north.

The only Grizzlies that I've seen in-person were named Shareef and Big-Country.

[Northern Exploration]

Jul 23, 2010 21:23:09 GMT -8 Low Light Mike said:

Jul 23, 2010 21:05:55 GMT -8 @4roads said:

Have to ask this question about your excellent trip.

See any critters? Black bears, eagles or any meese?

No major marine wildlife, other than the tail fluke of something near Wright Sound.

We saw countless ravens at Haida Gwaii, and plenty of eagles there too. There are also lots of small mule (Sitka) deer on Graham island that we saw on our drive north from Tlell to Masset.

For bears, we only saw 3 and they were all black bears. 2 within 5 minutes of each other near New Aiyansh.

No elk or moose.

but we saw lots of totem poles.... ;D

I have never done the trip in the summer time, butalways during the shoulder season near the beginning or end of the daylight cruises. I wonder if movement of fish etc. in the Spring and Fall has something to do with extra critter sightings. Certainly seeing the Kermode was during the salmon run on that river on Princess Royal. And certainly the herring and other small fish runs have a lot to do with it. All the ocean critters seemed to be eating or traveling. Only one sighting of Grey Whales did they appear to be just frolicing . Either that or they all came out when Flug was having his sacriligious nap.

[Low Light Mike]

Apparently April & May in Haida Gwaii gives you a 90% chance at seeing a gray whale, near Skidegate and Sandspit.

Just timing, as they pass Tofino in March and make it further north by April May.

So my July timing sucked for migrating whales, and the low/late salmon run messed up my Hyder plan.

But I got bit by lots of "no see'ums" at Stewart, so that will be my most memorable wildlife encounter.


.....I've got some more ferry photos to crop & post, and then I'll get to the Haida Gwaii trip report.

[Low Light Mike]

Friday July 9th was our first full day on Haida Gwaii.

For our 5-night stay, our base was a nice guest house called "Premier Creek Lodging" in the village of Queen Charlotte.
- I highly recommend it for its location, its cleanliness and for the owner/manager's commitment to the profession of inn-keeping.
www.qcislands.net/premier/

Here is the main building:



Here is our view from the front porch of the Inn (a restored heritage building).



The village of Queen Charlotte is easy to walk around, but it's a thinly spread-out village that hugs the seashore along the main road from Skidegate.

There are some small but funky cafes in town, a pub, and a small grocery story. At nearby Skidegate village, there is a Co-op grocery story.

- Here's the Purple Onion deli cafe



All along the way on our trip, we visited the local tourism-info centres, to pick up free brochures/booklets on the "next in line" town of our vacation, so that we could always plan-ahead.
- When in Prince Rupert, we picked up our Haida Gwaii guidebook, and so we read it on the ferry trip over to the islands....

- Here's a great relief-map of Haida Gwaii, in the middle of the room at the tourism info centre (a first-class tourism info centre), at the village of Queen Charlotte:




We planned our Haida Gwaii visit to have a mix of stay-put "read & relax" times and some day-trip outings. For Friday, we visited the Haida Heritage Centre & Museum, which is just east of the Skidegate ferry terminal.
www.haidaheritagecentre.com/


$15 (plus your ongoing Federal & Provincial tax contributions) gets you into the centre. The heritage centre and museum are 2 entities under the same roof. The museum is on the south end of the building complex, and has stricter house-rules than the rest of the centre. ie. no backpacks or photography in the museum, but anything-goes in the heritage centre.

- the photo below is of the museum part of the complex. The high roof is to house some tall ancient totems inside.



The heritage centre is 5 connected longhouse buildings, each with a 21st Century totem pole in front. The 5 buildings are for:
- carving shed
- performance building
- food building
- welcome building
- teaching building

Here's some outside views of this amazing complex, on an amazing beach!





Here's the welcoming centre at the heritage complex:



Once upon a mid-day dreary, we visited the Haida Heritage Centre


===================

[Low Light Mike]

More at the Haida Heritage Centre at Skidegate.


There were totems of all sizes on display, inside and outside.

Here's a small guy:
- from counting the # of sections on the figure's hat, we know that the person that this totem honours would have hosted 2 potlatches in his life.



Some more of the 21st Century totems on the site.



- that's a 5-finned orca on the pole on the right-side.



- a close-up of the tops of 2 poles:



The top of another pole
- the carved figures on the top of poles are the "watchmen".
- the top of a pole is also a good perch for a real raven.




The no-paint pole (traditional style) in front of the carving shed.


Inside this wonderful carving shed:



A tree ready for carving into a pole



The paper plans, and pencil sketch.

[Low Light Mike]

One of my vacation traditions is to buy some books during my trip, preferably from a museum or community-organization gift-shop. Or from a local, independent bookstore (such as on Galiano or Quadra islands).

For this trip, I ended up buying 4 books:

1) The Final Voyage of the Princess Sophia : Did They All Have to Die? Author: Ian MacDonald & Betty O'Keefe
www.gazellebookservices.co.uk/ISBN/1895811643.htm
- my one ship-book purchase, from the Visitor Info-Centre at the village of Queen Charlotte.
- I haven't read it yet, but I figured that since my trip would later take me into Alaska, a book about a Lynn Canal shipwreck was an appropriate memento of my trip.



2) Haida Gwaii: The Queen Charlotte Islands, Third Edition
Dennis Horwood (Author)
www.amazon.ca/Haida-Gwaii-Queen-Charlotte-Islands/dp/1894974824
- written by someone who is likely a colleague of Mrs. Wett Coast Kidd, I ironically bought this book on my last day on Haida Gwaii.
- I also bought this from the Visitor InfoCentre at Queen Charlotte. It is a very good guidebook about the islands and their history, geography, travel, flora/fauna, etc.

It also includes this photo of the MV Northern Adventure, with appropriate photo-credit given to someone that we know...




3) Ninstints, by George MacDonald (UBC Press)
www.ubcpress.ubc.ca/search/title_book.asp?BookID=1204
I saw this book in 3 different stores, before I finally purchased it (from the Prince Rupert museum, after my Haida Gwaii trip).
- it is an academic booklet describing the researched abandoned village of Ninstints, located on Anthony Island on the southern end of Gwaii Haanas park.
- The Haida name is now SGang Gwaay Llanagaay , and it is a UNESCO world heritage site.
- White-guy academics visited the site in the early 20th century, and these black-and-white photos are the main basis for the reconstruction of the village site in the booklet.
- The Haida abandoned the village in the 1800's, after their population was decimated by smallpox.

The village site is now home to "ancient" totems, that are weathered by still amazing to behold. I didn't visit; this village site is a long ways away from main-roads on the islands.

Here's the Parks-Canada webpage on this site.
www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/bc/gwaiihaanas/edu/edu1c.aspx




4)Cannibal Tours and Glass Boxes - The Anthropology of Museums
by Michael M. Ames

Ever since visiting the Haida Heritage Centre in Skidegate, I have been thinking about the paradox of Haida culture being preserved in non-Haida museums, some as far away as Chicago (but also at the UBC Museum of Anthropology and at the Royal BC Museum).
- The Haida are now wanting their artifacts and ancestors-bones returned to them.
- But if it weren't for museum preservation over the past 100 years, much of the current collections of Haida historical artifacts would have been lost, to everyone (including the Haida).
- The visitor infocentre at Queen Charlotte shows a very moving video of Haida people repatriating ancestors bones from the Chicago Field Museum, a few years ago. The Haida travel led to Chicago with a bunch of bent-wood boxes and button-blankets with which to inter their ancestors in. They then returned to the islands and held a mass-funeral at Skidegate village.
- That video also shows Haida people visiting the museum basement to see the back-room artifact storage, and to see them handle "their" culture's treasures with latex-gloves on.

Here's a Chicago Field Museum webpage about this experience
www.fieldmuseum.org/museum_info/press/press_haida.htm


And here's a link to an NPR radio report on this repatriation
www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=1599694



The site of the Ninstints village was visited by a team in 1957 (including Bill Reid) who chopped-down and crated various totem poles from the site, and took them to the UBC Museum of Anthropology.

- I had been pondering this paradox of museums being pilferers or preservers for a few days, when I found this book at the gift-shop at K'San (Hazleton).
Cannibal Tours and Glass Boxes - The Anthropology of Museums
by Michael M. Ames
www.ubcpress.ca/search/title_book.asp?BookID=123
- I'm currently reading it. It's an academic book (ie hard to read), but it addresses the very issues that I had been pondering, and still continue to ponder.

==========

As for purchasing Haida artwork, I was able to find a piece of Bill Reid art, for only $20.

[Low Light Mike]

Skidegate Village is a community of approx 1,000 people, and is one of 2 main sites where Haida live today (the other is Old Massett).

We visited 3 or 4 times during our stay, to shop or site-see or just to enjoy a drive through the village. We chose to ignore the distracting things of clutter (such as the various Coke & Pepsi machines in the middle of some house's front lawns), and instead focused on the beauty of the area and the people.

Here's the main waterfront street



Bi-lingual street signs. They must have something similar to "Bill 101", because the English font is smaller....



Some houses have their own totem poles in the front yard.
- BC Hydro is also into the art craze.



A parkside planter. Whether it was by chance or on purpose, it's still a neat sight.



The village cemetery is a sacred place to the Haida.



The lovely seaside of the village.







There is a Bill Reid pole, right in the middle of the seaside street. The building behind the pole is used as a language school.


Close-up of Bill's artwork


Bill Reid: friend to the ravens




Wildlife is plentiful is Skidegate village.
- the waterfront offers regular viewing of eagles and turkeys.

[Low Light Mike]

Saturday, July 10, 2010, visit to north end of Graham Island.

Old Massett is just outside the larger village of Masset. The old village is different from the new because:
1) it is old
2) it uses 2 "T's" in its spelling
3) it is a Haida village.

Although you could say that the entire set of Haida Gwaii islands is 100% Haida territory (and they'll be sure to tell you that), there still are distinctive areas known as "reserves" that have that classic Rez look and feel. Old Masset (along with Skidegate village) is such a place.

O.M. is home to 700 people today.

==============

The Haida nation flag is a common sight in both Old Massett and Skidegate.
- of course, the 2 main clans (eagle and raven) are the flag's features.



The first of many totem carvings
- of course the welcome poles feature the raven and the eagle.



Similar to Skidegate, Old Massett has distinctive street signs.
- the one's on O.M. are all in the shape of a canoe.



This is the giant crate that holds the old totem pole from Jasper, Alberta.
- the pole was an iconic Jasper landmark (beside he train station) for many years.
- It has now come home to Old Massett to sit and rot, and I think we all paid for that.......so I thought that you should see the spiffy crate.



West-Coast Rez scenes:






- Ravens resting on the roof.




Lots of poles in this village. (not as many as in Danzig....)

- see the WatchMen on the top of the pole.





------------

While driving around the village, we came upon a traffic jam with cars parked on either side of a street and lots of people standing around.

As we got nearer, we saw a multitude of Haida in someone's back-yard for a gathering. The people were all wearing their ceremonial regalia (woven cedar-bark hats, button-blankets, etc), and they were so beautiful.

I showed restraint and didn't take photos, as we slowly drove by.

We asked someone elsewhere in the village, to find out what the event was. It was someone's "head-stone ceremony", which happens 1 year after someone dies.
- a week later (also on a Saturday), we stumbled upon a similar event in the Gitxsan village of Hazelton.

From my subsequent research into this tradition, this is a large clan (ie community) event, so it's not surprising that it caused a traffic-jam in Old Masset on that Saturday.

[Low Light Mike]

Some scenes from our day trip to the northern part of Graham Island.

=================

The typical road scene, between Skidegate and Tlell, following the seashore:
- it reminded me a bit of old Highway 19 near Union Bay.




Those highway lines are freshly painted. On our NorAd trip to Haida Gwaii, I was talking with a guy who looked like the typical hippie burnout character. He said "I'm going to paint some lines, man", in a Tommy Chong sounding voice.
- I wondered if this was a drug thing, so I just nodded.
- A few days later, while passing the caravan of line-painters doing their work, we saw the hippie guy driving one of the trucks. (must have been the effect of the years of working near paint fumes.... ;D)

--------

South of Tlell, is St. Mary's Spring. It's a roadside attraction, QCI style.
- there is a sign in tribute to a local chainsaw carver (who had carved the statue of that lady named Mary), with a note saying that "whoever drinks from this spring will someday return to these islands....".



The Province of BC placed their own sign at this site:


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North of Tlell, the highway turns inland and takes you past the village of Port Clements.
- this is the village where a few years ago, the ignorant & backwards village council asked the local RCMP for relaxed enforcement of drinking/driving laws.

Here is an excerpt from a 2008 news article from the QCI Observer:

Impaired driving laws will be enforced in Port Clements: RCMP

RCMP will continue to enforce impaired driving laws in Port Clements, despite a request from the village council to show restraint, says Sgt. Jim Vardy.

"Absolutely, categorically, we will not be showing restraint," Sgt. Vardy said. "Our members have been down there (in Port) and have noticed an increase in drinking and driving."

Port council sent a letter to the RCMP detachment last week after hearing that some residents had recently received 24-hour driving suspensions and had their vehicles towed up to Masset. During the discussion of this issue, council members mentioned the fact that there is no taxi service in Port, that the towing fee to Masset is $200, and that it is somewhat inconvenient for Port residents to retrieve impounded vehicles from Masset, 40 kilometres away.

Sgt. Vardy said that since an article about council's decision appeared in the Observer, he has received several phone calls from Port residents.

"People phoned me to say that it's their pastime in Port Clements to go to the bar and have a couple of drinks and drive home," he said. "I'm like, that's fine, but walk."

.......well, I didn't see rampant drunkenness in Port Clements, but I did only visit in the afternoon. They might have only been getting started, by the time that I left.

Port Clements is on a large inlet, much like a lake.
- here's the Gov't wharf, looking at Masset inlet.


--------------

Here is the mothballed Canadian Forces station at Masset.
- they have a nice fenced yard.





East of Masset, you enter Naikoon Provincial Park, and the road becomes a gravel 1.5 lane road.





End of road is Tow Hill, which is a volcanic rock feature, that rises up from the beach.
- there is a good trail (with boardwalk steps that are slip-proof) to the top.


For our visit, it was a foggy day. Here is what we could see:




- on a clear day, you can see Alaskan islands, but not on our day.
------------------

Back at Masset, we visited the Dixon Entrance Maritime Museum.
- they had a nice display of Union Steamship memorabilia (see photos posted in the Union Steamship photo thread)