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Apr 8, 2023 21:58:18 GMT -8
Post by QoNW Fan on Apr 8, 2023 21:58:18 GMT -8
I'd like to be able to take photos from the terminals when ferries are docking/departing, or while I am on the ferry I'd like to be able to take photos of other ferries in the distance, and in active pass. It would be very nice to walk through the forests and take photos of wildlife in the distance. The 400mm would give you more reach, and it is in your dollar range. Both have image stabilization. If I could only buy one lens and wasn't planning to upgrade my camera, and using your price point - this would probably be the lens I would choose. The 16-300 does not appear on the Kerrisdale Cameras web site. Sounds great thanks! If I may ask, do you know of any significantly better lenses in the $1000-$2000 range that would be good for ferry photography? It might be worth it to pay a little more for something that will last.
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Post by Kahloke on Apr 9, 2023 6:22:38 GMT -8
The Tamron should be a good all purpose lens for you. I have a Tamron 16-300 lens that I use with my Nikon D3300, and it does well for me. I'm kind of like Low Light Mike, I prefer not having to change out lenses all the time. I'm not even an amateur photographer, so I don't need a lot of the fancier features and custom settings of the more professional rigs. I also have a Nikon 10-24 wide angle lens that I use for architectural shoots. That one does a really nice job of getting me the wider angles without the fish-eye distortion, and is good in low light situations, like indoors, which is where I typically use that lens. That was a cool video link. Yeah, that guy was on MV Chelan heading to Friday Harbor. Thanks! How would you say the 16-300 compares to the 18-400 for sharpness? Ideally I would like the subject (ferry) to be sharp and clear, with mountains in the background. I've never had, or used, the 18-400 lens, so I can't really compare. The 16-300 lens has image stabilization and as for sharpness, I think it does ok. My lens is at least several years old, as is the camera. I bought the lens new through B&H Photo, but I don't remember when - probably 10+ years ago. My Nikon D3300 is at least that old, too, so my equipment isn't all that new. On the plus side with cameras, as long as it works and I'm happy with the results, having older equipment is not a detriment. It's not like smartphones where you're always chasing after the newest technology, although I have an iPhone 10R which I'm quite happy with, so I guess that means I'm not one of those new adopters of the latest tech. It seems like you're getting some pretty good advice here on cameras and lenses. I think you'll be happy with the Tamron 18-400 lens. The 16-300 goes slightly wider, but probably not so much as you'd notice, and as Paulvanb eluded to, it might not even be available anymore, at least not new.
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Apr 9, 2023 13:00:53 GMT -8
Post by QoNW Fan on Apr 9, 2023 13:00:53 GMT -8
Thanks! How would you say the 16-300 compares to the 18-400 for sharpness? Ideally I would like the subject (ferry) to be sharp and clear, with mountains in the background. I've never had, or used, the 18-400 lens, so I can't really compare. The 16-300 lens has image stabilization and as for sharpness, I think it does ok. My lens is at least several years old, as is the camera. I bought the lens new through B&H Photo, but I don't remember when - probably 10+ years ago. My Nikon D3300 is at least that old, too, so my equipment isn't all that new. On the plus side with cameras, as long as it works and I'm happy with the results, having older equipment is not a detriment. It's not like smartphones where you're always chasing after the newest technology, although I have an iPhone 10R which I'm quite happy with, so I guess that means I'm not one of those new adopters of the latest tech. It seems like you're getting some pretty good advice here on cameras and lenses. I think you'll be happy with the Tamron 18-400 lens. The 16-300 goes slightly wider, but probably not so much as you'd notice, and as Paulvanb eluded to, it might not even be available anymore, at least not new. Sounds like the Tamron 18-400 is the winner! I will start saving up. Thanks everyone for helping. Great community here. If anyone has any other suggestions for more-expensive telephoto lenses feel free to let me know and I will consider them too.
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Apr 11, 2023 15:50:31 GMT -8
Post by QoNW Fan on Apr 11, 2023 15:50:31 GMT -8
Kerrisdale Cameras recommended a few lenses to me, and they said that while the other lenses will give good results, this Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L is II USM Lens will give the best results at maximum focal length. Is this worth saving up for? It's $3000 on kerrisdale cameras, or $2,200 on Amazon. Or do you think the Tamron 18-400 will give good enough results for only ~$900?
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Post by Ollie on Apr 11, 2023 16:45:25 GMT -8
Kerrisdale Cameras recommended a few lenses to me, and they said that while the other lenses will give good results, this Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L is II USM Lens will give the best results at maximum focal length. Is this worth saving up for? It's $3000 on kerrisdale cameras, or $2,200 on Amazon. Or do you think the Tamron 18-400 will give good enough results for only ~$900? That lens should definitely have good image quality but I don't know if it would be worth saving for. It is designed for full frame/35mm cameras which means it will work best if you happen to obtain a 35mm film/full frame camera, but it will only use the center part of the lens for your aps-c camera. (I think)
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Apr 11, 2023 19:42:06 GMT -8
Post by QoNW Fan on Apr 11, 2023 19:42:06 GMT -8
Kerrisdale Cameras recommended a few lenses to me, and they said that while the other lenses will give good results, this Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L is II USM Lens will give the best results at maximum focal length. Is this worth saving up for? It's $3000 on kerrisdale cameras, or $2,200 on Amazon. Or do you think the Tamron 18-400 will give good enough results for only ~$900? That lens should definitely have good image quality but I don't know if it would be worth saving for. It is designed for full frame/35mm cameras which means it will work best if you happen to obtain a 35mm film/full frame camera, but it will only use the center part of the lens for your aps-c camera. (I think)
Sorry I am still very new to real cameras, and I haven't learned what film/full frame/aps-c means, so I will need to research that. If that lens won't be very compatible with my Canon 90D then I am best off sticking with the Tamron 18-400.
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Post by Ollie on Apr 11, 2023 20:04:57 GMT -8
That lens should definitely have good image quality but I don't know if it would be worth saving for. It is designed for full frame/35mm cameras which means it will work best if you happen to obtain a 35mm film/full frame camera, but it will only use the center part of the lens for your aps-c camera. (I think)
Sorry I am still very new to real cameras, and I haven't learned what film/full frame/aps-c means, so I will need to research that. If that lens won't be very compatible with my Canon 90D then I am best off sticking with the Tamron 18-400. The difference between full frame and aps-c is the size of the sensor, your Canon 90D has an aps-c sized sensor. A full frame sized sensor is the same size as a single frame on a roll of 35mm film, and is 1.5x bigger than aps-c (aps-c sensors are smaller than full frame sensors). If you use a full frame lens on your aps-c camera, it will still work fine, but the lens would be projecting the image bigger than your sensor can fully use. So you would have a larger heavier lens with less zoom range for slightly better image quality. (I could be wrong)
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Post by WettCoast on Apr 11, 2023 20:59:41 GMT -8
Sorry I am still very new to real cameras, and I haven't learned what film/full frame/aps-c means, so I will need to research that. If that lens won't be very compatible with my Canon 90D then I am best off sticking with the Tamron 18-400. The difference between full frame and aps-c is the size of the sensor, your Canon 90D has an aps-c sized sensor. A full frame sized sensor is the same size as a single frame on a roll of 35mm film, and is 1.5x bigger than aps-c (aps-c sensors are smaller than full frame sensors). If you use a full frame lens on your aps-c camera, it will still work fine, but the lens would be projecting the image bigger than your sensor can fully use. So you would have a larger heavier lens with less zoom range for slightly better image quality. (I could be wrong) The sensor size for full frame is approx 36 x 24 mm (864 sq mm). For APS-C it is 24 x 16 (384 sq mm). In other words, the full frame sensor has more than twice the surface area of APS-C.
Lots to learn about photography. The camera you have is an introductory level model with an APS-C sensor & I would not recommend spending big money on this camera. I say this because if you get serious about photography you will probably go to a mirrorless full frame in the not to distant future and you might then regret having spent a lot of money on lenses for the 90D. DSLR cameras are not history yet, but we are headed that way. While you can adapt DSLR lenses to mirrorless, it is recommended to buy lenses designed for mirrorless. Canon's code for DSLR lenses is 'EF'. For mirrorless its 'RF'.
So bottom line is go for the cheap lens because I believe in the future you will go to a full frame mirrorless and you will want lenses designed for them.
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Apr 11, 2023 21:25:52 GMT -8
Post by QoNW Fan on Apr 11, 2023 21:25:52 GMT -8
The difference between full frame and aps-c is the size of the sensor, your Canon 90D has an aps-c sized sensor. A full frame sized sensor is the same size as a single frame on a roll of 35mm film, and is 1.5x bigger than aps-c (aps-c sensors are smaller than full frame sensors). If you use a full frame lens on your aps-c camera, it will still work fine, but the lens would be projecting the image bigger than your sensor can fully use. So you would have a larger heavier lens with less zoom range for slightly better image quality. (I could be wrong) The sensor size for full frame is approx 36 x 24 mm (864 sq mm). For APS-C it is 24 x 16 (384 sq mm). In other words, the full frame sensor has more than twice the surface area of APS-C.
Lots to learn about photography. The camera you have is an introductory level model with an APS-C sensor & I would not recommend spending big money on this camera. I say this because if you get serious about photography you will probably go to a mirrorless full frame in the not to distant future and you might then regret having spent a lot of money on lenses for the 90D. DSLR cameras are not history yet, but we are headed that way. While you can adapt DSLR lenses to mirrorless, it is recommended to buy lenses designed for mirrorless. Canon's code for DSLR lenses is 'EF'. For mirrorless its 'RF'.
So bottom line is go for the cheap lens because I believe in the future you will go to a full frame mirrorless and you will want lenses designed for them.
Very helpful info, thank you! I will keep saving up for the Tamron 18-400. It's probably good for me to start my photography journey on less-expensive cameras and lenses, then once I am more experienced I can start working my way up and getting the cameras and lenses that fit my needs.
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Post by WettCoast on Apr 11, 2023 21:31:52 GMT -8
Very helpful info, thank you! I will keep saving up for the Tamron 18-400. It's probably good for me to start my photography journey on less-expensive cameras and lenses, then once I am more experienced I can start working my way up and getting the cameras and lenses that fit my needs. Absolutely. It also means that if you decide at some point that photography is not your thing then you won't have sunk a bunch of money into something where your interest has lapsed.
I know a lot of people who own big, bulky & expensive cameras who leave them sitting collecting dust and if they want to take photos they just go with their phones. Light weight & pocketable has its advantages.
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Apr 14, 2023 16:13:52 GMT -8
Post by QoNW Fan on Apr 14, 2023 16:13:52 GMT -8
Any recommendations for aperture priority vs. shutter priority for ferry photography? I've heard great things about aperture priority, just making sure that will work without a tripod for these conditions though. I want to make sure the shutter speed is fast enough for handheld.
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Post by WettCoast on Apr 14, 2023 18:55:31 GMT -8
Any recommendations for aperture priority vs. shutter priority for ferry photography? I've heard great things about aperture priority, just making sure that will work without a tripod for these conditions though. I want to make sure the shutter speed is fast enough for handheld. Shutter priority. You want to keep your shutter speed up to 'freeze' action. Though ferries don't move that fast you generally need a higher shutter speed to compensate for long lenses and for vibration if you are shooting from a ferry. The vibration on a ferry can ruin a photo by causing motion blur. The rule of thumb used to be that the shutter speed should at least be 1/lens focal length (35 mm equivalent). If you are using a wide angle lens that is 18 mm on an APS-C camera than to get its equivalent focal length multiply by 1.5 (18 = 27). So 1/30 would then be the minimum shutter speed you would use for that lens. If you set your lens at 200 mm on an APS-C camera then its equivalent focal length is 300 mm. So you minimum shutter speed would then be 1/300 or the next higher shutter speed above that. Most modern cameras have some form of stabilization either built into the lens, or in the camera body (IBIS), or both. So in theory you can go with lower speeds but if you have to compensate for vibration (coming from the ferry you are riding on) then I would choose a shutter speed higher.
Aperture priority controls the lens F-stop which in turn controls depth of field. For some types of photography depth of field is used creatively to control how narrow (or wide) the zone of focus is in the photo you are about to take. I don't think depth of field control is all that important when photographing ferries.
Your camera also has another mode called 'manual' with can still be 'automatic'. You set the shutter to say 1/500, and the aperture to say F8. You also set the ISO to 'Auto'. The camera will then choose an ISO appropriate to give you a properly exposed image. Beware that high ISO's can lead to poorer image quality. ISO's of 1000 or below are usually no problem. Above about 5000 You will notice degraded image quality.
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Apr 14, 2023 20:02:23 GMT -8
Post by QoNW Fan on Apr 14, 2023 20:02:23 GMT -8
Any recommendations for aperture priority vs. shutter priority for ferry photography? I've heard great things about aperture priority, just making sure that will work without a tripod for these conditions though. I want to make sure the shutter speed is fast enough for handheld. Shutter priority. You want to keep your shutter speed up to 'freeze' action. Though ferries don't move that fast you generally need a higher shutter speed to compensate for long lenses and for vibration if you are shooting from a ferry. The vibration on a ferry can ruin a photo by causing motion blur. The rule of thumb used to be that the shutter speed should at least be 1/lens focal length (35 mm equivalent). If you are using a wide angle lens that is 18 mm on an APS-C camera than to get its equivalent focal length multiply by 1.5 (18 = 27). So 1/30 would then be the minimum shutter speed you would use for that lens. If you set your lens at 200 mm on an APS-C camera then its equivalent focal length is 300 mm. So you minimum shutter speed would then be 1/300 or the next higher shutter speed above that. Most modern cameras have some form of stabilization either built into the lens, or in the camera body (IBIS), or both. So in theory you can go with lower speeds but if you have to compensate for vibration (coming from the ferry you are riding on) then I would choose a shutter speed higher.
Aperture priority controls the lens F-stop which in turn controls depth of field. For some types of photography depth of field is used creatively to control how narrow (or wide) the zone of focus is in the photo you are about to take. I don't think depth of field control is all that important when photographing ferries.
Your camera also has another mode called 'manual' with can still be 'automatic'. You set the shutter to say 1/500, and the aperture to say F8. You also set the ISO to 'Auto'. The camera will then choose an ISO appropriate to give you a properly exposed image. Beware that high ISO's can lead to poorer image quality. ISO's of 1000 or below are usually no problem. Above about 5000 You will notice degraded image quality.
Alright so just making sure I understand this, x1.5 my focal length for a good shutter speed? So for 400mm it would be 1/600, if that exists?
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Post by WettCoast on Apr 14, 2023 20:55:42 GMT -8
Alright so just making sure I understand this, x1.5 my focal length for a good shutter speed? So for 400mm it would be 1/600, if that exists? Yes, that is what you do. But if your zoom lens is set at 200 mm then you would be looking for a shutter speed of at least 1/300th. In practice you would use the next highest speed up the scale, 1/640 for example.
In good light keep your shutter speed fairly high, say 1/800th, and your ISO at say 500. The camera should then be choosing an F stop of something like 8 which will yield fairly broad depth of field.
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Post by QoNW Fan on Apr 14, 2023 21:27:11 GMT -8
Alright so just making sure I understand this, x1.5 my focal length for a good shutter speed? So for 400mm it would be 1/600, if that exists? Yes, that is what you do. But if your zoom lens is set at 200 mm then you would be looking for a shutter speed of at least 1/300th. In practice you would use the next highest speed up the scale, 1/640 for example.
In good light keep your shutter speed fairly high, say 1/800th, and your ISO at say 500. The camera should then be choosing an F stop of something like 8 which will yield fairly broad depth of field. Very helpful! Thanks so much. I am going to try to buy the Tamron 18-400 lens by the end of this month. I assume Kerrisdale Cameras is a superior option than Amazon, even though the lens costs the same on both sites. Kerrisdale probably has much better policies I imagine, and I can go in-person. I have learned so much about cameras recently, this YouTube series really made everything click for me. Chris Bray is a fantastic teacher, he shows common errors people make in the process of learning about cameras, and he shows how to fix those errors in a really easy way.
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Post by paulvanb on Apr 15, 2023 9:11:26 GMT -8
Yes, that is what you do. But if your zoom lens is set at 200 mm then you would be looking for a shutter speed of at least 1/300th. In practice you would use the next highest speed up the scale, 1/640 for example.
In good light keep your shutter speed fairly high, say 1/800th, and your ISO at say 500. The camera should then be choosing an F stop of something like 8 which will yield fairly broad depth of field. Very helpful! Thanks so much. I am going to try to buy the Tamron 18-400 lens by the end of this month. I assume Kerrisdale Cameras is a superior option than Amazon, even though the lens costs the same on both sites. Kerrisdale probably has much better policies I imagine, and I can go in-person. I have learned so much about cameras recently, this YouTube series really made everything click for me. Chris Bray is a fantastic teacher, he shows common errors people make in the process of learning about cameras, and he shows how to fix those errors in a really easy way. Sometimes, the price can be a little cheaper on Amazon, and you can research the heck out of them, but getting the opportunity to try out a lens in person is the best way. I think it is important to support your local camera shop. I have bought most of my new or new to me lenses at Kerrisdale Cameras or London Drugs, mostly from Kerrisdale.
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Post by WettCoast on Apr 15, 2023 9:13:56 GMT -8
Very helpful! Thanks so much. I am going to try to buy the Tamron 18-400 lens by the end of this month. I assume Kerrisdale Cameras is a superior option than Amazon, even though the lens costs the same on both sites. Kerrisdale probably has much better policies I imagine, and I can go in-person. I have learned so much about cameras recently, this YouTube series really made everything click for me. Chris Bray is a fantastic teacher, he shows common errors people make in the process of learning about cameras, and he shows how to fix those errors in a really easy way. Probably the biggest advantage of Kerrisdale (or other local camera stores) is returns are relatively easy. If you decide you don't like the lens, or its defective in some way, it can be returned relatively easily within a short period after purchase. Ask them about that at the time of purchase. The staff are also very knowledgeable about the products that they sell. Kerrisdale has a Victoria store as well as several on the mainland.
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Post by QoNW Fan on Apr 18, 2023 16:01:33 GMT -8
Picked up my Tamron 18-400mm lens from Kerrisdale cameras today! They just got them in the Victoria store this week! Great timing! So excited to get started, took some test photos and the zoom is incredible!! So crisp even at the highest focal length. Thanks for helping everyone!!
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Apr 18, 2023 22:31:19 GMT -8
Post by QoNW Fan on Apr 18, 2023 22:31:19 GMT -8
Would you all recommend Adobe Lightroom as a photo editor? I just learned how Lightroom can easily turn 3 shots into an HDR image, which looks really interesting! Is it worth the cheapest $12 monthly plan? Also, if I am using it I would need to be shooting in RAW, correct?
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Apr 18, 2023 23:15:22 GMT -8
Post by Ollie on Apr 18, 2023 23:15:22 GMT -8
Would you all recommend Adobe Lightroom as a photo editor? I just learned how Lightroom can easily turn 3 shots into an HDR image, which looks really interesting! Is it worth the cheapest $12 monthly plan? Also, if I am using it I would need to be shooting in RAW, correct? I have it but I wouldn't really recommend it because you have to pay them an overpriced monthly fee to use it, It does work well though. Also, you don't need raw files to use it, JPG files seem to work fine for me
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Apr 19, 2023 13:23:00 GMT -8
Post by QoNW Fan on Apr 19, 2023 13:23:00 GMT -8
Would you all recommend Adobe Lightroom as a photo editor? I just learned how Lightroom can easily turn 3 shots into an HDR image, which looks really interesting! Is it worth the cheapest $12 monthly plan? Also, if I am using it I would need to be shooting in RAW, correct? I have it but I wouldn't really recommend it because you have to pay them an overpriced monthly fee to use it, It does work well though. Also, you don't need raw files to use it, JPG files seem to work fine for me I think one advantage that comes with this program is that there are so many tutorials online for how to do stuff. But I agree it is very overpriced. Any free alternatives? I have paint.net but that really isn't the greatest compared to Adobe Lightroom.
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Apr 19, 2023 14:52:16 GMT -8
Post by Ollie on Apr 19, 2023 14:52:16 GMT -8
I have it but I wouldn't really recommend it because you have to pay them an overpriced monthly fee to use it, It does work well though. Also, you don't need raw files to use it, JPG files seem to work fine for me I think one advantage that comes with this program is that there are so many tutorials online for how to do stuff. But I agree it is very overpriced. Any free alternatives? I have paint.net but that really isn't the greatest compared to Adobe Lightroom. I don't really know any free ones except the one built into flickr. I have use Luminar and it works almost as well as Light room, I like that it is a 1 time fee. It is still overpriced though and they make you pay extra for features that should have been included. I think they used to have a free one but their website is so confusing, it used to be much cheaper as well.
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Apr 19, 2023 15:09:43 GMT -8
Post by QoNW Fan on Apr 19, 2023 15:09:43 GMT -8
I think one advantage that comes with this program is that there are so many tutorials online for how to do stuff. But I agree it is very overpriced. Any free alternatives? I have paint.net but that really isn't the greatest compared to Adobe Lightroom. I don't really know any free ones except the one built into flickr. I have use Luminar and it works almost as well as Light room, I like that it is a 1 time fee. It is still overpriced though and they make you pay extra for features that should have been included. I think they used to have a free one but their website is so confusing, it used to be much cheaper as well. I didn't know there was one built into Flickr, do you need pro?
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Post by Ollie on Apr 19, 2023 15:20:07 GMT -8
I don't really know any free ones except the one built into flickr. I have use Luminar and it works almost as well as Light room, I like that it is a 1 time fee. It is still overpriced though and they make you pay extra for features that should have been included. I think they used to have a free one but their website is so confusing, it used to be much cheaper as well. I didn't know there was one built into Flickr, do you need pro? I don't think so, it should work for all accounts. It works well enough, but you have to upload the photo to flickr first. There are probably better free options
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Post by WettCoast on Apr 20, 2023 10:30:42 GMT -8
I have been using software from a company called ACDSee, based in Victoria. I got some free ACD software with one of the first digital cameras I bought 20 years ago. I found it to be good for managing my photo collection and low-level editing. I have used many versions of ACD software since and am now paying for it.
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